|
|
Post by NS'Creter on Jun 10, 2008 16:25:23 GMT -4
Yep!! This is where we can talk about the products. Their application(s), strengths, problems and where to get the most bang for our hard-earned bucks.
|
|
|
|
Post by NS'Creter on Jun 11, 2008 14:10:22 GMT -4
Well, here's my first question...  Heh,heh. I haven't even used a P.A.P. product yet, but I've read a lot about the options out there. I am totally sold on the Diamond Sheild and will be ordering some within a few days. My question is...can this products be successfully applied over a water based sealer? This is for a particular instance...there is no visible delam of the existing sealer...I applied 2 coats about a year ago...no wax has been used. I would like to offer the extra protection that the D.S. affords and my customer would like to have the shine. By the way...it's a ConRes stained surface...the main entry into a home. |
|
Lindy
Seasoned Concrete Veteran
Posts: 185
|
Post by Lindy on Jun 11, 2008 16:30:55 GMT -4
There is not a yes/no answer to applying PAP over water based acrylic sealer. Water based sealers are homophobic, in that the allow moistures/vapors to pass through them, as well as enter into them from above (this is why they are prone to white out/fog out in prolonged periods of dampness) ...thus, you have vapor permeable pathways.
Detergent residues used for routine cleaning over time, along with waxes, and/or other foreign matter can leach down into the top mils of homophobic/permeable water based acrylic sealers; thus, becoming potential bond breakers. For this reason would never blindly assume that maximum bonding of PAP over water based acrylic sealer can be achieved (not even taking into account differing formulations on the market) ... instead, you should always CYA by applying a test sample of PAP over the water based sealer you are using (whether it is an old/aged sealer that has been on the surface for an extended period of time or a new one) in order to address this issue.
It can be time consuming, messy, and add more surface prep cost; but in order to achieve the ultimate in longevity, performance, maximum mechanical and adhesive bonding properties, etc. I recommend stripping the water based acrylic sealer. Doing so is low cost insurance to assure lasting success. Investing in a PAP is pointless if the substrate and/or sealer it is applied over isn't prepped correctly or previous sealer/coating is not compatible.
PAP's do bond, as a tuff/durable and wear/abrasion resistant, final protective finish coat over 100% solids industrial flooring epoxy; however, bonding success over water based acylics may or may not be sucsessful for the above reasons.
Lindy A.
|
|
|
|
Post by NS'Creter on Jun 11, 2008 16:47:03 GMT -4
Okey-dokey...believe it or not, that's kinda what I was thinkin'. Now for the sillier question...is there an effective way to strip this water based stuff without wrecking the ConRes surface under it? It's not a big surface at all...about 5' X 7'...and I could redo it, but I'd prefer not to. They wanted a slate slab look in shades of gray and I got it bang-on.
Thanx Lindy.
|
|
|
|
Post by concreteillusions on Jun 11, 2008 23:14:43 GMT -4
I would really doubt it. That is the main problem with these products such as conres and even the pig stains is that if you have to remove the sealer your stain job is pretty much shot. God knows I use these products religiously, but I honestly can;t say I could remove any type of sealer from conres without destryong the stain job. On the upside, you can always do it again, and change the color unlike acid stain.
|
|
ECI
Journeyperson Of Concrete
Posts: 90
|
Post by ECI on Jun 12, 2008 9:13:15 GMT -4
Just wanted to say Welcome to Joe as he will have a lot
to contribute here, thanks for joining
|
|
Lindy
Seasoned Concrete Veteran
Posts: 185
|
Post by Lindy on Jun 13, 2008 12:02:27 GMT -4
100% solids (solvent free) UV resistant clar industrial flooring epoxy will bond to you existing acrylic sealer. Instead of stripping you could apply 1 coat of 100% solids epoxy over your acrylic sealer, followed by 1 coat of PAP. PAP's bond securely to epoxy and are freqently used as final highly abrasion/wear resistant finish coat over epoxy on industrial/commercial flooring. You would average about 200 sq.ft. per gallon on the epoxy, with about 350-400 sq.ft. averge coverage of the PAP over it.
Lindy A.
|
|
alexwright
Seasoned Concrete Veteran
Engrave-N-Stain Concrete Solutions
Posts: 180
|
Post by alexwright on Jun 19, 2008 0:48:38 GMT -4
Hey Lindy would the very same scenario work but with a floor finish (wax) on top of the acrylic sealer? So basically Conres, acrylic sealer, floor finish. Can this be topped with 100% epoxy then PAP?
|
|
Lindy
Seasoned Concrete Veteran
Posts: 185
|
Post by Lindy on Jun 19, 2008 17:14:19 GMT -4
Are you asking if you can apply and epoxy or polyurea over a floor finish ... if so, no, the floor finish would have to be stripped. You can apply a 100% solids UV resistant industrial flooring epoxy over an acrylic sealer that is free of foreign matter, waxes, floor finishes, etc.).
|
|
alexwright
Seasoned Concrete Veteran
Engrave-N-Stain Concrete Solutions
Posts: 180
|
Post by alexwright on Jun 20, 2008 3:13:31 GMT -4
Thanks
|
|
xscash
Concrete Pro
don't settle for plain concrete, stain concrete!
Posts: 31
|
Post by xscash on Jul 1, 2008 21:27:53 GMT -4
just made my first order and sale of diamond sheild. i usually stick to the products i know and use, but i cant resist trying this product. ill let you know what i think in a week when i apply it.
|
|
Heh,heh.
